Marrakech for first-timers: our expert’s just-back guide

First time in Marrakech? There’s a lot to get your head around, from navigating the souks to knowing which famous sights are actually worth your time. Fresh from four nights in the medina, Kathryn from our marketing team shares what lived up to the hype, what surprised her and the tips she’d pass straight on to you.

Is Marrakech worth visiting?

For Kathryn, it’s an easy yes.

“Absolutely. Marrakech can be a short, sharp hit of Morocco, but there’s more to it than a quick city break. Barter your way through the souks, peer into tiled palaces, cool off in hidden gardens, scrub up in a hammam and eat your way around the city’s rooftops. There’s time for mint tea on a sunny terrace and afternoons by the pool too. By night, Jemaa el-Fnaa is in full swing, with food stalls firing up and performers pulling in the crowds. And with the Atlas Mountains close enough for a day trip, you’ll have plenty to keep you busy.”

How many days do you need in Marrakech?

Kathryn recommends four nights in Marrakech for a first visit, giving you three full days to explore without trying to cram everything in.

“If you’re staying in the medina, four nights is great. There are plenty of cultural sights and museums to see, plus you’ll want time to get happily lost in the souks. We liked getting up and out early, then heading back to our riad to chill on the rooftop terrace in the late-afternoon sunshine.”

Got longer? Rather than spending six nights in the same place, Kathryn would split the trip.

“With five or six nights, I’d do three nights in the medina and another two or three outside the city. You could stay closer to the Atlas Mountains or in the desert, which also means you’re not travelling as far for hikes and other experiences.”

Where should you stay in Marrakech?

Kathryn’s advice for first-timers? Stay in a riad in the medina.

“You have everything on your doorstep. There are all-inclusive resorts outside the city and you can get taxis in and out, but there’s nothing like walking straight out of your riad and into the hustle and bustle of the medina.”

For a longer holiday, she’d mix things up. “I’d do a few nights in a riad, then switch to a resort where the pace is more pool, spa and feet-up time” – our Marrakech Twin Centre is already set up for it.

“My favourite hotel in Marrakech is La Sultana. I love its maze of courtyards, rooftops and beautifully restored riads, right in the heart of the old city.”

Ruben Derksen, Marrakech local

What surprised you most?

“I’d been a little nervous about how much hassle we’d get walking through the souks as two women, but we always felt safe. If we weren’t interested in buying something, ignoring it or saying ‘no thanks’ was generally enough. The souks were busy, but I didn’t find them overwhelming.”

“The food caught me off guard too. There are some excellent restaurants tucked away in the medina, loads of rooftop spots and a really good choice if you’re veggie.”

What are the best things to do in Marrakech?

Kathryn packed plenty into four nights. Here’s what she’d recommend.

1. Start with a guided walk through the medina

“We booked a morning walking tour of the medina through our hotel and it was one of the best things we did. Our guide helped us get our bearings, led us down little streets we’d never have thought to explore and showed us places we might otherwise have missed.”

2. Step inside Ben Youssef Madrasa

One of Kathryn’s favourite cultural stops was Ben Youssef Madrasa, a former Islamic school.

“It’s a beautiful building, and you can go upstairs and see the tiny rooms where students once lived and studied. I’d definitely make time for it.”

3. See Jardin Majorelle, but book ahead

Jardin Majorelle is one of Marrakech’s best-known sights, famous for its cobalt-blue buildings and connection to Yves Saint Laurent. Pair it with the neighbouring Yves Saint Laurent Museum while you’re there.

“It is lovely, but it was very busy when we visited. There’s a set route around the garden and we found there were queues for some of the photos everyone wants. I’m still glad we went.”

Her advice? Reserve Jardin Majorelle before you travel, rather than hoping to pick up tickets on the day.

4. Seek out Le Jardin Secret

The garden Kathryn preferred? Le Jardin Secret.

“It feels so peaceful when you step inside. There are two gardens, exotic and Islamic, and the Islamic garden smelled gorgeous with all the herbs and plants growing there. We actually preferred it to Jardin Majorelle.”

5. Give yourself a hammam day

This was one of Kathryn’s highlights.

“We booked a day pass and hammam experience recommended by our hotel. We spent some time by the pool, then had a hammam, scrub, mud wrap and massage followed by lunch. I absolutely loved it.”

There are hammams and spas across Marrakech, including in many riads, so check what your hotel offers or ask them for recommendations. If there’s a particular experience you have your eye on, book ahead.

6. Shop the souks

“The souks are busy, but I didn’t find them overwhelming. Traditionally there are different areas for things like textiles, ceramics, leather and jewellery, although these days there’s plenty of crossover.”

And yes, you can barter.

“Work out roughly what you’re happy to pay and start a bit lower. Walking away can be a very effective negotiating tactic! But remember you can end up haggling over what amounts to a few pounds, so keep some perspective.”

Her other advice? Leave room in your suitcase.

“The leather was incredible. We only had hand luggage, which really limited what we could bring home. If I went back, I’d absolutely take checked luggage just for the shopping.”

Our local expert Ruben has plenty more ideas for getting beyond Morocco’s headline sights, from meeting Marrakech’s makers to taking the old road across the High Atlas. Read his guide to how to experience Morocco like a local.

“My perfect day in Marrakech? Start with warm msemen flatbread, amlou, Morocco’s almond and argan spread, and coffee, then explore the medina while it’s still relatively quiet. Pick one or two historical sites, wander the souks, stop for a Moroccan lunch, then spend the afternoon in a hammam before sunset drinks overlooking the medina and dinner.”

Ruben Derksen, Marrakech local

Where should you eat in Marrakesch?

Kathryn came back raving about Marrakech’s food scene, with some excellent restaurants tucked away around the medina.

“Kabana was one of our favourites. It has a rooftop, good cocktails and music, with a bit of an Ibiza feel. We liked it enough to go back the following evening for drinks.”

Kathryn also found plenty worth ordering elsewhere.

“We went to Terrasse des Épices for lunch and had a great tagine, but the sardine tacos were the winner for me. L’Mida was really good for veggie choices and Moroccan food.”

One thing Kathryn noticed was that several of the restaurants she visited in the medina didn’t serve alcohol.

“That didn’t bother us at all. There were loads of fresh juices, smoothies and alcohol-free cocktails instead. I would book a couple of restaurants before you travel though, especially anywhere you really want to try.”

Hungry for more? From Friday couscous shared around one enormous plate to Fes pastilla and fish straight from the market in Essaouira, see what to eat in Morocco with our local’s foodie guide.

Should you combine Marrakech with somewhere else?

Absolutely. Marrakech is a cracking place to begin, but Kathryn would use a few extra days to see a different side of the country.

Essaouira or Fes? Atlas Mountains or Agafay? Our local’s guide to the best places to visit in Morocco will help you work out where to go next.

We’ve got a few trips that do the mixing and matching for you, including Marrakech, Desert and Beach and Cities and Medinas of Morocco.

For more ideas, read our guide to combining Marrakech, mountains, desert and coast in one holiday.

When is the best time to visit Marrakech?

For warm days that make wandering the medina a pleasure, spring and autumn are hard to beat. March to May and September to November are generally the sweet spots, although these popular months can mean busier sights and riads, so it pays to book early.

Summer turns the temperature dial right up, particularly in July and August. If you do travel then, take a leaf out of the Marrakech playbook: explore early, retreat to the shade or pool during the hottest part of the day and head back out as the city comes alive in the evening.

Winter can be a lovely time for sightseeing, with milder days and fewer visitors outside the festive period, but don’t be fooled by the sunshine. Temperatures can tumble once the sun goes down, so bring layers for rooftop dinners and early starts.

The information is correct to the best of our knowledge at the time of publication.