All aboard: the Rocky Mountaineer

Jenny, Personal Travel Expert at Kuoni Harrogate, recently rode the Rocky Mountaineer – one of the world’s most legendary rail journeys. From bald eagle sightings to GoldLeaf glitz, she’s here to share the standout moments and answer the top FAQs.

Set the scene: what was your trip?

A packed week in Western Canada. Starting with elk-spotting and gondola rides in Banff, rolling through the Rockies on the Rocky Mountaineer, then rounding it off with skyline views and street eats in Vancouver.

What is the Rocky Mountaineer?

It’s Canada’s most iconic train journey and deservedly on many people’s bucket lists. Our two-day trip started in Banff and ended in Vancouver, winding through the Rockies and remote western vistas, with mountain passes, forested valleys and milky-blue rivers all the way. The train has a panoramic glass roof, and the best part? It’s all-inclusive – with gourmet meals and premium drinks included.

What’s it like on board?

It feels exciting from the moment you board – relaxed but with a sense of occasion, and a great energy with friendly faces, clinking glasses and cameras at the ready. The hosts were on their A-game, sharing interesting nuggets and stories, pointing out photo moments and keeping us topped up with wine. You’ve got heated, reclining seats, chef-prepared meals and panoramic windows, plus outdoor viewing areas so you don’t miss a thing.

Which Rocky Mountaineer route is the best?

There are a few to choose from, but the most popular are the one we did – First Passage to the West (Banff to Vancouver) which travels through the engineering marvel of the Spiral Tunnels – as well as the Journey through the Clouds (Jasper to Vancouver). Now I’ve done it, I’d also recommend doing it in reverse – starting in Vancouver and ending in Banff/Jasper – as the landscapes build and get more dramatic as you go.

Where do you sleep?

The Rocky Mountaineer only runs during daylight hours, so you stay overnight off the train. Between the two travel days, we stayed in a modern hotel in Kamloops (midpoint hotels are arranged by Rocky Mountaineer). You’re in and out pretty quick – off the train around 8pm, back on by 7am – but it’s a welcome stop for a hot shower and a good night’s sleep. You don’t have to lift a finger as your luggage is delivered to your room and taken care of the next morning.

What’s the difference between SilverLeaf and GoldLeaf?

GoldLeaf is double-decker, with floor-to-ceiling windows upstairs, a separate dining room below and your own outdoor viewing platform. SilverLeaf is single-level with big windows and meals served at your seat, plus access to a shared outdoor viewing area. Both offer the same incredible views, but if you can stretch to Gold, I’d say go for it. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience – and if it means scaling back elsewhere to make it work, it’s worth it.

What’s the best time to travel?

The train runs from April to October. I recommend to go in April and May – you'll still see snow on the peaks, get that best of both worlds weather (it gets warm in the afternoons) and avoid the peak crowds. Autumn’s meant to be stunning too, with the whole route wrapped in autumn colour. I recommend booking early, especially for summer, as peak dates sell out fast.

Will I see any wildlife?

Wildlife sightings aren’t guaranteed, but there’s always the chance of spotting moose in the distance, osprey overhead or even a bear if you’re lucky. We saw a couple of bald eagles, which was a real pinch-me moment! The train slows through the most scenic stretches so you’ve got time to take it all in. Bring binoculars and a camera with a good zoom. There’s no Wi-Fi onboard, so save the Instagram uploads for later and just enjoy the ride.

What’s the food like on board?

It’s seriously impressive. Meals are prepared using local, seasonal ingredients. Breakfast (think eggs Benedict, buttermilk pancakes and baked-fresh pastries) is served not long after boarding, followed by a multi-course lunch later in the day and a wine and cheese pairing in the afternoon. If I had to pick one dish, it’d be the Alberta AAA beef with wild mushrooms and a red wine jus – easily up there with anything from a top-end restaurant. Drinks are just as generous – all soft drinks and premium-brand alcohol are included, from sparkling wine and craft beers to Tanqueray gin and rich hot chocolate.

Which side of the train is better?

Both have knockout views. The train zigzags and crosses rivers so the scenery shifts throughout the journey. If you’re travelling with friends or family, it’s good to know the seats can be turned to face each other in a pod of four.

Unexpected joys?

One of my favourite little moments was people greeting the train as we passed. In the tiny town of Canoe, look out for Doris – she’s known for standing by her trackside yellow house almost every day to give a cheerful hello. Doris has become a bit of a legend, never missing a train. It was genuinely heartwarming to see her there, beaming with her friend and little dog as we rolled by.

Jenny’s insider tip: A unique Rockies route for 2026

If you’re thinking of travelling in summer 2026, here’s one to know. Due to the World Cup, Rocky Mountaineer is offering special two-night departures in June and July that run from Banff to Jasper, skipping Vancouver altogether. It’s a chance to see the best of both the First Passage to the West and Journey through the Clouds in one hit. A brilliant option if you want more mountains, more wildlife and more epic Rocky views – and no city crowds.

What should you pack?

Layers. It was chilly in the mountains, sunny by the coast. You’ll want a light jacket, sunglasses and a scarf. No need to dress up, it’s smart-casual at most.

Good to know

A few final tips to help you plan:

• Tips are included in our packaged price

• Most seats have electric sockets but ask your host if you can’t find one.

• Luggage is checked in and travels separately – max two pieces at 23kg each. Bring a day bag that fits at your feet as there’s no overhead or under seat storage.

• Some coaches are wheelchair accessible – let us know if you have any mobility needs.

How to make the Rocky Mountaineer work in your Canada itinerary

Canada’s made for big adventures and there are plenty of ways to work the Rocky Mountaineer into a trip. For the classic route, follow in Jenny’s footsteps and start with hikes and hot springs in Banff or Jasper, then end in Vancouver with craft cocktails by the harbour. You could flip the route or bolt on an Alaska cruise, sailing past glacier giants and through wildlife-rich fjords. However you want to do it, we’ll share our ideas and plan every detail, from smooth-sailing transfers to the best hotel stays.

This feature was created on 19th June 2025. The information within this feature is correct to the best of our knowledge at the time of publication.