Neil Kemble, Personal Travel Expert at Kuoni Chester, just got back from a week in Dominica. He hiked, snorkelled, soaked and explored – and now he’s here to tell you why this under-the-radar Caribbean island belongs on your where-next list.
I’ve been to my fair share of Caribbean islands and, from what I’ve seen, most follow a familiar rhythm: resort, beach, repeat. Dominica is wired different. It’s mountainous, wild and best discovered by foot or fin. You don’t come here for all-inclusive beach clubs. You come for rainforest hikes, hot spring soaks and to see a side of the Caribbean that hasn’t been polished for postcards. It’s not overrun with hotel chains either, so it keeps that off-the-map energy.
Curious? You should be. Here’s how I explored Dominica in four adventure-packed days, with tips on where to stay and what to know before you go.
Trafalgar Falls
Day 1: Waterfalls and warm springs
I woke up fresh, ready to see what Dominica had to offer. First up was Titou Gorge, a dramatic, narrow canyon tucked away in the island’s highlands. We swam between the mossy rock walls to a waterfall so perfect it could have been lifted from a screensaver.
Next came Trafalgar Falls, twin waterfalls that are widely considered as the island’s most photographed spot. We rounded off the day at Ti Kwen Glo Cho, soaking in the mineral rich water of the natural hot springs. Not a bad way to ease into Dominica!
Day 2: Dive in then cruise the coast
Dominica is known for its incredible marine life, and staying at a dive resort, it was only right to spend a day on the water. I started with a snorkel straight off the dock at Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort, drifting over volcanic rock, coral gardens and reef fish in every shape and shade. If you’re into diving, the on-site team can take you further out to explore bubbling reefs and dramatic drop-offs.
Later on, I joined a whale-watching cruise along the west coast. Dominica is one of the few places in the world where sperm whales live year-round and, depending on the season, you might also spot pilot whales or migrating humpbacks. We cruised past rainforest-covered cliffs and tiny fishing villages, cold drinks in hand, the sun starting to dip. Back on dry land, I grabbed a table at the hotel restaurant, Palisades, and polished off a plate of grilled lionfish with lemon butter and local greens. Spot-on after a day at sea.
Middleham Falls
Day 3: Jungle trekking
Time to hit the trail. We set out early for Middleham Falls, Dominica’s tallest waterfall, and one of its most rewarding hikes. The trail winds through Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO-listed tangle of ancient forest – lookout for tree frogs in the undergrowth and colourful hummingbirds darting past. The air’s damp and earthy, the path a mix of roots, rocks and red mud, so it’s definitely one for decent shoes.
After a steady climb, the roar of the falls came into earshot. Then there it was, a sheer drop of water tumbling into a deep, cool pool. Everyone dived straight in to cool off. After the heat, the mud and the climb, it was exactly what we needed. We came back tired, happy and ready for a shower and an ice-cold beer.
We’d hoped to tackle the trail to the famous Boiling Lake, but it was temporarily closed due to recent landslides. But there's something new coming. A 4.1-mile detachable cable car will take visitors to the lake in around 20 minutes. When it opens, it will be one of the longest of its kind in the world and offer a completely new way to experience the island’s interior.
The Indian River
Day 4: River magic and eco luxury
On our final day, we set off along the Indian River, the island’s widest navigable waterway and easily one of its most atmospheric. My guide, Maverick, rowed us up the river, sharing stories about the wildlife, medicinal plants and local legends as we went.
As the mangroves closed in and the light shifted, it felt like stepping onto a film set… which, as it turns out, it is. We stopped at the eerie hut famously featured in Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest, then pulled in at the Bush Bar, a breezy, open-air shack only reachable by boat. The signature drink? Dynamite. A punchy blend of rum, tropical fruit and spice. I could’ve stayed there all afternoon, but lunch at Secret Bay was calling.
This place is on another level. Clifftop villas, hidden coves for swimming and an unbeatable rainforest-meets-sea setting. I had lunch at Bwa Denn, their new island-to-table restaurant perched right above the bay. The food was outstanding; beautifully presented, locally sourced and rooted in Dominica’s flavours.
Secret Bay
Day 5: And then?
After five days of rainforest trails, hot springs and deep-sea sightings, it was time to reluctantly say goodbye. If I’d had longer, I would’ve added on one of Dominica’s sun-drenched neighbours for the ultimate Caribbean double act. St Lucia, Antigua and Barbados are just a short flight away and offer an easy shift from wild landscapes to laid-back beach days.
Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort
Where I stayed: Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort
This harbourfront hotel is built into the stone walls of a 17th-century fort, but inside it’s all fresh Caribbean style. My room had sea views and a chilled nautical vibe. It’s a brilliant launchpad for exploring, with the capital on your doorstep and a full line-up of daily excursions run by the hotel team.
As the name suggests, there’s a PADI dive centre on on-site, plus a soothing spa and a waterfront restaurant. I’d recommend the All Inclusive + Island package. It includes guided hikes, snorkelling, island tours and even a relaxing massage.
Barbados
Also worth considering
★ Secret Bay – High-spec clifftop villas with serious wow-factor.
★ InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa – A polished resort near national parkland, ideal for spa lovers and couples.
InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa
FAQs: planning your trip to Dominica
How to get there?
I flew with Virgin Atlantic via Barbados. You can’t fly direct from the UK, but the connection was easy and my bags were checked all the way through. There are also direct flights to Dominica from New York (Newark) and Miami if you're adding on time in the States.
When’s the best time to go?
Dominica is known as the Nature Island for good reason. Most of it is rainforest and it feels authentic and untouched. December to April is the dry season and the most popular time to visit. I went in April and it was quiet, green and not too hot. If you want fewer crowds, the shoulder months of May, June or November are a great time to go.
Titou Gorge
What should I pack?
Quick-dry layers, good hiking shoes, a waterproof jacket, daypack and of course, swimwear. You’ll use it all.
Who’s Dominica best for?
Hikers, divers, nature-lovers and anyone who prefers rainforest trails over resort pools. It’s also a great fit for eco-conscious travellers, with a focus on sustainability and protecting natural landscapes over building big resorts. Wellness seekers will feel at home too, with hot springs, jungle yoga and a slower pace that’s easy to sink into.
Would I recommend it?
Without a doubt. It’s raw, real and totally refreshing. I’ll be back.
Inspired?
Let’s take you there. From rainforest trails to deep-blue dives, we’ll shape a trip that suits your pace – or pair Dominica with a laid-back island for the best of both worlds. Talk to our experts and let the daydreaming begin.
This feature was created on 6th May 2025. The information within this feature is correct to the best of our knowledge at the time of publication.