*Denotes local charge
*Denotes local charge
High above the Ngorongoro Crater, right on the rim, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge is themed around traditional circular African houses, with stone walls and conical roofs. The location is one of the best in Ngorongoro, on the quieter eastern side with one of the quickest access roads down into the crater. If you head out early, chances are you’ll be able to enjoy some quiet time in the crater before the crowds arrive. On clear evenings, the sunsets here are wonderful. The glass-fronted main building looks out to the swimming pool, manicured lawns and the crater beyond. Meals are taken in the large thatch-roofed Lemala Hill restaurant, alternating between buffets and table d’hote menus with a variety of choices. There’s also a circular bar with carved African-style panels and a light and airy lounge with large glass panels to enjoy the panoramic views. Comfortable rooms are housed on the upper or lower floors of a series of two-storey circular buildings, reached by stone walkways. Traditional in style, with earthy colours, exposed brickwork and wood-panelled ceilings, they feature two queensize beds, a bathroom with shower and small bath, and central heating – a welcome necessity during the cold season. All rooms also have an indoor balcony area with floor-to-ceiling windows so that you can make the most of the view without being exposed to the chilly evening air.
Gibb’s Farm offers something quite unique in Tanzania. It’s not a hotel, nor a safari lodge – although it lies just half an hour from the crater rim so there’s still excellent wildlife viewing to be had close by. Instead, it’s a charming guesthouse that was originally a 1920s coffee farm, with lush floral gardens, coffee and vegetable fields, and views over the rolling hills. The light and airy dining rooms and lounge are housed in the old farmstead, which has exposed beams, original artwork and stone fireplaces. Meals are prepared using lots of the farm’s own organic produce, fresh from its gardens and on-site bakery and dairy. There’s a sustainable approach too, with grey-water recycling, solar water heating and waste composting. Rustic country cottages are dotted throughout the lawns and rose gardens. Inside, they are warm and characterful, with hand-crafted furniture, open fires and large bath tubs. Each has its own theme, with artwork commissioned through the farm’s artist-in-residence program. Sitting on your private terrace listening to the dawn birdsong is a soothing way to start the day. There’s a gentle pace here. During your stay you’ll be encouraged to immerse yourself in ‘farm life experiences’, like joining the resident naturalists on morning bird walks, bread making, coffee roasting and taking afternoon tea in the gardens. After sunset, guests gather around the fire for drinks to listen to tales of Iraqw culture and tribal folklore. Away from the farm, visit the extraordinary volcanic landscape of the Ngorongoro Crater – the largest unbroken ancient caldera in the world that teems with wild game including elephant, lion, rhino and Thomson’s gazelle.
Reminiscent of a Cape Dutch-style farmhouse, The Manor at Ngorongoro is an elegant stately home set high in the Ngorongoro Highlands. The accommodation here is some of the most lavish on the safari circuit. Nine cottages house 18 huge luxury suites with traditional Cape Dutch architecture. Each has a separate living area, indoor and outdoor fireplaces and a private deck. Indulgent en-suite bathrooms feature his and hers sinks, a large rainfall shower and Victorian-style claw-foot bath – ideal for a relaxing soak after days spent exploring out in the wild. A 3-bedroom Stable Cottage in the same styling offers superb accommodation for families. Meals are served in the formal dining room or the dining conservatory, accompanied by wines from the manor’s private cellar. Days on the estate can be spent horse riding (the manor has its own stables), mountain biking, enjoying picnic lunches in the grounds, or indulging with deep tissue massages. Sundowners here are a must, with cocktails served overlooking the rolling hills. Recommended day trips from the manor include a game drive in the Ngorongoro Crater – a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s home to the densest concentration of wildlife in Africa – and a visit to lovely Lake Manyara.
Lemala Ndutu is about spotting wildebeest, zebra, lion and rhino on the grassy floor of the crater, and flamingo, ostrich and eagle owl on world-famous Lake Ndutu. From December to March, nine safari tents are set up inside the Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Park – the green season epicentre from which to watch the arrival of over a million wildebeest on their migration across southern Serengeti. The camp and its surrounds unfold like an adventure trail through candle lamp canvas and into the wilderness of the southern Serengeti. There’s the rush of seeing that first lion hunt, the pleasure of dining communally under crystal clear starry skies, a huddle around the campfire and falling asleep to the sound of a late night roar. Sensitively and stylishly built, tents are spacious with large beds, cosy rugs, wooden floors and safari showers all under the shade of acacia trees. The central mess tent filled with plumped-up cushions and leather sofas is there to be shared and enjoyed, and with early sunshine streaming through there’s nothing quite like a full English bush breakfast before a day of game driving ahead. It’s an authentic under-canvas experience with expert guides, Maasai warriors, full-day game drives and the potential to go on gentle walking safaris not often available elsewhere. And we love that this seasonal base is a prime spot for calving and rutting season, too.
Imagine staying so close to the crater floor you get to arrive before the crowds. Lemala Ngorongoro sits on the rim of the crater, which means in just 15 minutes – and descending 2,000 feet through misty rainforest – you’ll reach the floor for a little bit of solitude and an opportunity for photos in the most spectacular dawn light. Most other lodges are based on the other side of the crater, so you generally have about an hour before anyone else makes the drive around. And with such a varied topography of swamplands, river, forest and lakes, this is a unique chance to try and spot rare species such as the black rhino and ancient male tusker elephant as well as lion, leopard, flamingo and elephant. Lovingly known as Acacia camp, accommodation is sensitively set under the forest’s canopy with as low an impact as possible. A Hemingway-style safari dream, rustic yet refined tents are filled with all the comforts you need; king-size beds, tent butlers, hot water bottles and famous bucket safari showers. Sink into cosy sofas, grab board games and books and settle down come evening in the central mess tent or at the long communal dining table where magical dinners are spent sharing stories with fellow camp mates. So-called Bush TV is another delight; pre-dinner outdoor sundowners and safari tales as the fire crackles into life. This camp is made extra special with evening performances by local tribes and guided forest walks with Maasai warriors.