What’s it really like on an HX Expeditions polar cruise?

Set your sights on a polar expedition cruise but not sure what to expect? Cruise expert Josh Naylor travelled to Antarctica with HX Expeditions, experiencing the White Continent by ship, Zodiac and kayak. From life on board and Science Centre sessions to penguin encounters and packing tips, here’s his inside take.

Josh’s trip in a nutshell

Josh travelled on HX Expeditions’ Highlights of Antarctica itinerary aboard MS Fridtjof Nansen. After time in Buenos Aires, he flew to the southern tip of Argentina, where the sailing began. The route crossed the legendary Drake Passage into Antarctic waters, stopping at Neko Harbour, Damoy Point and other remote landing sites before returning to Ushuaia.

How is an expedition cruise different from a traditional cruise?

The way I’d describe it is that the ship becomes your floating base camp. It’s less like a traditional cruise, where the ship is the destination, and more like a safari camp at sea. You’re using it as a comfortable, well-equipped base to get into remote places each day, whether that’s by Zodiac, on foot or even by kayak. Like a safari, the experience is shaped by the conditions and the wildlife. No two days – or expeditions – are the same, and that’s a huge part of the appeal.

What sets HX Expeditions apart?

HX has expedition in its DNA – they’ve been doing this since 1896. Today, its Antarctic fleet includes MS Fridtjof Nansen, which Josh travelled on, MS Roald Amundsen and MS Fram, a smaller ship carrying just 250 guests and a favourite with return travellers. Nansen and Amundsen are hybrid-powered, which means they can run purely on battery power in certain areas, with no engine noise or vibration. You’re just hearing the pure sound of nature: the crack of glaciers, shifting ice or the puff of a whale breaking the surface nearby.

There’s a strong sustainability focus too, from removing single-use plastics to sourcing around 75% of food from local communities where possible. Leaving Argentina, they make sure they’re stocked up with great Argentinian steak and fresh seafood, which supports local suppliers and brings that local flavour on board.

From a value point of view, there’s a lot included too. Your fare is all-inclusive, with excellent food, house wine, beer and soft drinks covered, plus access to the sauna and hot tubs. Then there are the expedition inclusions: daily landings, Zodiac cruises, expert-led talks, briefings, expedition gear, Wi-Fi, professional photos and access to the Science Centre, a major part of the HX experience.

Is an expedition cruise more intense than a normal holiday?

I think the word expedition can sound quite daunting. People hear it and think of trekking Everest or doing some huge, mammoth adventure. And yes, you’re going to one of the most remote parts of the world, but with HX there’s still a lot of comfort built in. It’s a holiday as well. You might spend the morning out in the wilderness, then come back to the ship, warm up in the sauna, have a soak in the hot tub and get something to eat or drink. You’re not giving up comfort to have the adventure.

What happens on a typical day?

A typical day in Antarctica centres around getting off the ship. You’re generally doing one landing and one Zodiac cruise each day, whether that’s walking near penguin colonies, heading out on snowshoes or exploring among the ice floes by small boat, looking for seals, penguins and whales from the water.

The rest of the time you're on board. You might head to the Science Centre, listen to an engaging talk, go out on deck with the expedition team or just relax over food and drinks. Evenings are relaxed too. You don’t need to dress up for dinner – people often go in what they’ve been wearing that day – and there’s usually a recap of what you’ve seen and a briefing for tomorrow. It’s quite like safari in that sense: early starts, full days and most people in bed by 10pm.

At the start of your cruise, you’ll have the chance to sign up for optional activities. For many guests, kayaking, joining the Science Boat or camping overnight on the Antarctic Peninsula are the standout moments of the trip.

How much do the expedition team and Science Centre add?

The expedition team are the beating heart of the whole operation. On a traditional cruise, you might have theatre shows and entertainment teams, but on an expedition ship, the expedition team become that focus. They’re the ones standing out on deck with you, pointing things out as you sail and helping you understand the wildlife, landscapes and places you’re visiting.

The Science Centre is another big part of what makes HX different. There’s a dedicated space on board with lecture areas, microscopes and equipment, and they bring scientists on board to educate guests and contribute to research projects during the voyage. You can get as involved as you want, whether that’s joining a talk on penguins and whales, going deeper on a subject that interests you, or heading out on the Science Boat to collect samples and examine them back on board.

There’s also Citizen Science, where guests can help with ongoing research. With Happywhale, for example, you can take a clear photo of a whale’s tail and upload it to the global database, because the markings are like a fingerprint. Depending on the voyage, guests might also help record seabird sightings, support penguin monitoring projects or share leopard seal photos. For me, it made the science feel accessible rather than intimidating, and added a whole extra layer to what we were seeing each day.

What are the cabins like on board?

The modern cabins are very much in keeping with HX’s Scandinavian roots, with lots of wood and pine and soft lighting. A huge bonus on MS Fridtjof Nansen and MS Roald Amundsen is that all cabins are outside, and many have private balconies. If you want to sleep in serious style, the Expedition Suites are the ones to look at. My tip? All cabins have heated bathroom floors. After a landing, leave your gloves, hat and socks on the floor, and they’ll be toasty and dry by the time you head back out.

What should you know and pack before you go?

The Drake Passage – the famously choppy stretch of ocean between South America and Antarctica – is the bit people naturally worry about, but HX’s ships are well set up for it, with modern stabilisers and equipment to make the crossing as smooth as possible. You might get the ‘Drake Lake’, when it’s calm, or the ‘Drake Shake’, when the seas are rougher. We were lucky and had Drake Lake both ways, but if you do need to take it easy, you can livestream lectures to your cabin and order food to your cabin.

For packing, layers are key. Go with the onion method: clothes you can add or peel off as the conditions change, because the weather really can change on a dime. HX provides the landing boots and a waterproof windbreaker, so focus on good base layers, thermals and insulated waterproof trousers. Binoculars are worth taking too, and pack ginger nut biscuits if you’re worried about your sea legs.

You don’t need to be super fit, but you do need to be practical about where you’re going. There are always people there to support you, but you need to be steady on your feet, comfortable walking on ice or uneven ground, and confident getting in and out of a Zodiac. It’s not a trip I’d automatically leave until retirement. There were older guests having an amazing time, but I was pleased to be there relatively young, because getting out there and making the most of the landings is such a big part of the experience.

When is the best time to go?

The expedition cruise season in Antarctica runs during the austral summer, from late October to late March. October and November are great if you want fresh snow and ice scenery at its most pristine. By December and January, you’ve got longer daylight hours, slightly warmer conditions and penguin chicks starting to hatch, while February and March are usually the best months for whale sightings.

Who would love this kind of trip?

If you love land-based safaris, small-group tours or itineraries that get you deeper into a destination, an expedition cruise is in your lane. I’ll be honest, I had a stereotype in my head of who would be on board, but the range of guests really surprised me: solo adventurers, couples and relatives travelling together, like a mum and son. It was sociable too, with solo travellers often spotted getting to know each other over dinner.

What was your biggest wow moment?

Definitely going through the Lemaire Channel, known as the ‘Kodak Channel’ because it’s one of the most photogenic stretches of Antarctica. We sailed through at sunset, with the whole channel lit up in these amazing colours and nothing but the sound of nature around us. Kayaking was another must-do for me. Paddling through icebergs with penguins racing alongside is a memory I’ll never forget.

Another thing I loved was the professional photographer on board. HX really encourage you to put down your phone or camera and absorb what's happening, because the photographer is documenting the trip as you go. On the crossing back, they play the highlights in the lounge, including candid moments you didn’t realise they’d captured. On our sailing, there wasn’t a dry eye in the room.

Should you add time before the cruise?

I’d highly suggest adding an extra night or two in Buenos Aires before the cruise. One night isn’t enough after the long flight, especially when you’ve usually got an early onward flight to Ushuaia the next day. Give yourself time to shake off the journey and explore some of the city’s grand old neighbourhoods before continuing south.

Final thoughts

When you go somewhere like Antarctica, you come back with a deeper appreciation for the natural world. You do feel like one of the privileged few to have set foot on this incredible part of the planet. It’s a big thing to say, but for a lot of people, it will be the best trip they’ve ever done. So if it’s on your bucket list, this is your nudge to go. You won’t regret it.

The information is correct to the best of our knowledge at the time of publication.