A Real Jewel
This was my first visit to Viareggio, and I must say I was a bit trepidatious, not knowing what the weather in January would be. Happily, the gods were smiling and six of my eight days were bright and sunny with temperatures in the lower double digits. The other two were overcast, but without rain.
I arrived from Genova by train, and easily grabbed one of the waiting taxis in front of the station for the brief ride to the hotel. The fare was €12 rounded up. During my stay I regularly walked from the hotel to the train station in 25 minutes using the boardwalk (Viale Giosuè Carducci) and turning up Via Leonardo Da Vinci until reaching the station. It was flat terrain and very straightforward.
The hotel's facade and location are truly amongst the best in the pretty seaside town. Although 98 years old, the hotel is extremely well maintained and has a number of modern elements that belie its age. My greeting at the Front Desk by Duty Manager Mr. Povoleri was both welcoming and genuine. He took pains in explaining the various features, benefits and policies of the hotel and then personally escorted me to my room.
Although not large by North American standards, the room I was assigned was pristine and very tastefully decorated. The king bed was comfortable, and huge for a solo traveller such as myself. There was more than sufficient lighting in both the foyer, bed and bath rooms. My corner room had a partial sea view, as well as one of the Tuscan mountains. I couldn't have asked for better, as I find a full sea view somewhat boring after the first hour or so. Mr. Povoleri offered to raise the temperature in the bed room, but I preferred to keep it cool for sleeping. A touch screen control was at my disposal should I have changed my mind. There was a larger desk, with an easily accessible electrical outlet, that facilitated working on my laptop. Under the desk was a mini bar fridge, stocked with various beverages but with available space for a few extra personal items. Closet space was more than adequate for one or two guests, and included a room safe large enough to accommodate my 13" laptop. A hot water kettle, coffee mugs, coffee/tea/sugar/creamer packets, a corkscrew/bottle opener, wine glasses and a set of tumblers were also provided.
The bathroom was a good size, with two large mirrors, as well as a make-up magnifier model. A bidet, WC, vanity sink and a decent size glass shower stall were features of my room, as was a heated towel rack and a large hair dryer. Good quality toiletries were provided in addition to two pairs of slippers and two terry bathrobes. Towels were replenished daily, and I never lacked hot water for my shower and shave. I appreciated that there was a large window that could be opened to dispel the humidity after showering. A radiator could be adjusted to keep the bathroom nice and toasty during the chilly mornings.
During my stay, I used Viareggio as the starting point to explore the nearby Tuscan towns and cities of Lucca, Pisa and Firenze (Florence). They were all readily, and inexpensively reachable by train. As a result, I did not have the opportunity to sample the lunch or dinner F&B offerings. However, I made it a point to have a leisurely breakfast every morning. On three of the mornings, breakfast was offered on the fifth floor venue due to a function taking over the lobby spaces. The buffet was generally very good, although I did not particularly care for the food service potatoes or the scrambled eggs. This was easily remedied by ordering an omelet from my server, which I found exceptionally delicious. Croissants, pastries and sweet cakes were excellent, but the bread rolls were rather ordinary. The fresh fruits offered were pineapple, honeydew melon and grapefruit slices, as well as mandarin oranges, blueberries, blackberries and raspberries. All were exceptionally ripe and sweet. Charcuterie, cheeses, sausages, bacon, cereals, jams, honeycomb and other sweet and savoury items were among the breakfast selection. I thoroughly enjoyed my daily pot or two of American coffee, except when it was served in the 5th floor venue. The machine there could not provide anything hotter than a tepid brew. Espresso was a better option. Valentina, my usual server, was most accommodating and anticipated my requirements without me having to ask. Other servers were equally solicitous and polite to a fault. All had an excellent command of English, as well as other languages, answering me in French when they overheard me in a telephone conversation.
Housekeeping was conducted according to the door hanger I used to indicate servicing when I left for breakfast in the morning. On five of my seven days, it was exceptional. On the other two I would surmise that it was done by the "B" team. Curtains not drawn, used glassware not washed, toilet paper not pointed, some toiletries not replenished. Nothing too serious, but noticeable nonetheless.
I initially had been booked into the hotel for four nights, but was so impressed by the property and staff members, that I added an additional three nights. I now plan to return on a regular basis to benefit from both the hotel itself as well as its ideal location from which to visit other areas in Cinque Terre and Tuscany.
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