The closest you'll get to a high-quality African safari experience in the Pantanal
As veteran nature enthusiasts, we researched long and hard for places that offered high-end accommodations, key amenities, good food, low guest count, beautiful environments, an ethical approach to conservation and - most importantly - a high density of wildlife. Caiman Ecological Refuge checked all of those boxes, and then some.
Of the two lodges at Caiman, we felt that rooms at Cordilheira Lodge offered more space and comfort, and we were not disappointed. The property is stylish, comfortable and well maintained; it's very reminiscent of the nicer safari lodges in Africa, which is sorely lacking in the Pantanal. At Cordilheira, the suites have separate bedrooms and living rooms, which is key for allowing Mrs. KI-NRT to sleep in peace while I go over the hundreds of photos I shoot at every outing. The rooms are completely sealed from the elements (like most Pantanal lodges), and have very functional air conditioning, which came in very handy during the midday that can approach 40C. The rooms are solidly built with good privacy, and with good noise insulation, yet is just a very short walk to the common area. Everything is stylishly adorned, from the furniture to the carpets to the paintings on the wall. The decor was definitely a highlight of this property.
Service was very polished... The English skills of the staff were excellent, and they were warm, professional and catered to our every need. It is readily apparent that Caiman definitely attracts the best guides and service professional from all of Brazil. The evening that we arrived, they gave a nice presentation of the Pantanal, the environment, various conservation initiatives, the history of Caiman Ecological Refuge and its flora and fauna. The vehicles were open air with high canopies, which are perfect for viewing and photographing. They're also modern and in good shape - similar to the ones you see prowling the savannas of Africa.
We chose to go on a private outing for three of our 4 days at Caiman with Onçafari, a team whose mission is to protect Jaguars via habituation, a process by which jaguars become gradually more tolerant of humans and vehicles, which both helps in the research of these charismatic felines, and helps increase tourism that results from the increased sightings of the big cat. We learned a great deal of Onçafari's various initiatives, the Jaguars it researches (we now know many of them by name) and had a chance to track some of the cats that have been radio collared. We also got to visit an large, enclosed area that is being used to train Jaguars to be functional in the wild (they are often ones that have lost their mothers that were killed by farmers or poachers), and were lucky enough to get a glimpse of Jatobazinho, a shy young male that is currently in the process of being "re-wilded."
By no means, however, is Onçafari a Jaguar-only experience. Mario Nelson and Stephanie (our private driver and guide) were adept at spotting a variety of animals, including Tapir, Giant Anteaters, Black Capuchin Monkeys and a whole host of awesome birds, including the Hyacinth Macaws.
Speaking of the Hyacinth Macaws, we spent the final morning going out in the field with Kefany and Lucas, two members of Arara Azul (I.e. Hyacinth Macaw Project), a Hyacinth Macaw research and conservation organization. Over the course of the morning, we learned about their habitat, the threats they face, and the work being undertaken by Arara Azul to protect the species.
The food was buffet style, but of high quality. When you consider that Cordilheira Lodge only has six guest rooms, the sheer variety of dishes that they offer at every meal is astonishing. Not every offering is amazing, but the overall quality is high and there should be enough on offer to fill the belly of most foodies.
Those (like us) who seek a Singita, Great Plains or Wilderness Safari experience in the Pantanal, Caiman is as close as it gets. Even if it's not what you're looking for, the exclusivity, the high density of Jaguars and the various conservation projects taking place at Caiman makes it worth the splurge.