Dubai
There is little that might be called an indigenous UAE cuisine. The nomadic Bedouin had a limited diet: on special occasions they might feast on goat or mutton with rice but the staple was camel's milk and dates, known as "the mother and the aunt of the Arabs". The coastal Arabs, of course, had a supply of fish to vary their meals. What we know as Middle Eastern cuisine mainly comprises Lebanese, Iranian and Moroccan, all of which are readily available throughout the Emirates. For the less adventurous, all types of Western cooking can also be found, from hamburgers to the English Sunday lunch. Given Dubai's large population of workers from the sub-continent, it is no surprise that several good Indian restaurants are to be found there.
The best way to sample a range of Arabian specialities is to order a mezze, a Middle Eastern smorgasbord of starters that is as filling as a main course. On one tray you will be introduced to such delights as tabbouleh (cracked wheat salad with tomatoes, mint and parsley), hummus (a chick pea and sesame seed puree), moutabel (a delicious aubergine puree), wara einab (stuffed vine leaves with rice), and tahini (a dip of sesame seed paste, yoghurt and lemon). If you are still able, try a main dish such as makbous (spiced lamb with rice), hareis (long-simmered wheat and tender lamb), meshwi (a mixed grill of various types of meat and sausage), or any of the locally caught fish or shellfish such as red snapper, kingfish, pomfret, lobster and crab. A traditional snack is shawarma (grilled slivers of chicken or lamb, served with salad and stuffed into a pita bread). This is universally available at small shops and stands and is better known in the West via its incarnation as the doner kebab.
Popular desserts include esh asaraya (a type of cheesecake) and umm'ali (bread pudding with cinnamon and nutmeg. The Middle East is famous for its sweet tooth and even sweeter pastries, although fruit is the usual conclusion to a meal. The most common, of course, are dates, which grow throughout the more fertile areas of the UAE and at times have been responsible for the survival of the Bedouin.
Coffee is more than just a drink, it is an expression of the culture. Business and bargaining are traditionally never done without it, and coffee houses are repositories of cordiality and conversation (and, typically, only men). Roasted and pulverized beans are brewed in small brass coffee pots and served in tiny cups. The sugar is usually boiled at the same time and the coffee will be very sweet unless you make it clear you want it either mazbout (medium sweet) or murra (unsweetened). Don't stir the coffee, and let the grounds settle before drinking.
Remember, Muslim dietary laws apply. This means that in most places a sandwich and a beer won't be an option at lunchtime. Fortunately, the UAE being a relatively liberal society, you can obtain pretty much anything your taste buds fancy at the big Western hotel restaurants and bars. Prices for alcohol can be pretty steep, however.
