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Cayman Islands guide

Hideaway Isles

Sleepy, peaceful and British to the back teeth, the Cayman Islands dot the sea about 180 miles (290 km) northwest of Jamaica. There are no cries for independence here. Things run smoothly under a British governor. Queen Elizabeth II's photograph is hung with pride on office walls and the language is English.

The Caymans, three islands of which Grand Cayman is the largest and Cayman Brac and Little Cayman the lesser members of the family, have spent most of their history quietly being ignored. This is no longer true, for tourists have discovered the beaches and the gentle atmosphere, like a small town where everyone knows everybody else. Besides, the islands have become a financial centre-with over 500 banks. There's no income tax, no profit tax, no capital gains tax, no estate and death duties. Consequently, international business thrives here. This financial success story has led to tremendous economic expansion.

In spite of affluence, in spite of the tourists who now come in ever-increasing numbers, the place has retained its sober gait. Legend has it that the first settlers were two deserters from Cromwell's army, Bodden and Watler, names found all over the islands today. The pirates came and went, delighting in the remoteness of Grand Cayman and its absolute flatness, which makes it practically invisible against the horizon-in short, a perfect hideaway.

Once every year Caymanians honour the buccaneers with Pirates Week (usually held in late October). Then there are parades and contests, banquets, treasure hunts, coconut-shucking, golf, pirate ship cruises and swimming tournaments. The governor is "arrested" as part of the fun, and a gala ball is held to wind up the festivities.